Why a tapered leg needs a tapered cap
Most vintage and mid-century furniture legs aren’t straight cylinders — they narrow toward the floor. A round leg cap cut for a constant diameter won’t sit right on a cone-shaped leg; the brass either gaps at the top or pinches at the bottom. That’s the whole reason tapered brass leg caps exist: they follow the same taper as the wood, so the fit is flush from top to bottom and the leg reads as one continuous piece.
If your leg narrows as it goes down, this is the category you want. (If your leg is square, see our square brass leg caps guide; if it’s a straight round leg, the round leg cap buying guide is the better fit.)
Closed base vs. open end — the one decision that matters
There are two constructions, and they solve different problems:
- Closed-base tapered caps (our Solid Brass Tapered Leg Caps) have a solid bottom. The wood end grain is hidden, the foot sits flat on the floor, and the leg carries its load through the brass. Best when you want a finished, sealed look and the leg itself should not touch the ground.
- Open-end tapered ferrules (our Solid Brass Tapered Leg Ferrules) are open at both ends, so the leg passes straight through. The brass sheaths the lower section rather than capping it — the wooden tip stays exactly where it has always been, on the floor, and the ferrule simply takes the scuffs, chair-back knocks and vacuum wear that would otherwise chew up the bare wood.
Neither is “better” — it depends on whether you want the wood tip to remain in contact with the floor (open end) or be fully enclosed (closed base).
How tapered sizing actually works
A tapered cap is defined by four numbers, usually written as top (wide) × bottom (narrow) × height × wall thickness (mm). Because the leg is a cone, you need both the wide and narrow diameters — a single “diameter” measurement isn’t enough.
Our closed-base caps cover 15 sizes from roughly 22 × 17 mm up to 44 × 38 mm at the wide/narrow ends, with wall thickness of 1.0–1.5 mm of solid brass throughout. The open-end ferrules run a wider spread, with top outside diameters from 28 mm up to 55 mm, all at a consistent 1.5 mm wall. Measure the leg at the height where the cap will sit — wide end at the top of the cap line, narrow end at the bottom — and match both.
(For a straight round leg the measuring method is slightly different; we cover that separately in How to Measure & Fit Solid Brass Round Leg Caps.)
Solid brass, not plated
Both styles are turned from solid brass bar, not stamped steel with a brass coating. That matters more than it sounds: there’s no plating to flake, chip or peel, the weight is real in the hand, and the surface can be hand-polished to a soft gloss or left to age. A tapered cap is a small part, but it’s the part your eye lands on every time you look at the chair.
When tapered caps are the right call
- Mid-century and Danish-modern legs that taper to the floor
- Canes, walking sticks and curtain poles where a cone ferrule looks intentional
- Any piece where you want the leg to read as a single tapered line rather than a straight post with a collar
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a tapered cap and a tapered ferrule?
A tapered cap has a closed base and hides the wood end; a tapered ferrule is open at both ends and lets the leg pass through, so the wooden tip still touches the floor.
How do I know if my leg is tapered?
Measure the diameter near the top of where the cap will sit and again at the bottom. If the bottom is narrower, the leg is tapered and you need a tapered (not straight) cap.
Can I use a tapered cap on a square leg?
No — tapered caps are for round or cone-shaped legs. Square legs need a square ferrule or foot cup.
Do these come in different finishes?
Our tapered caps are hand-polished; square and foot-cup styles are satin brushed. All are solid brass and can be left to patina or kept bright.